The Rathskeller

Indianapolis’ oldest restaurant, serving German food, of course. We divide the Rathskellar into two distinct sections: inside and outside.

Inside is where you eat if you’re on a (debatable) first date with your future spouse. You then argue over who pays the bill and end up going dutch. How romantic.

If you’re in the mood for bread and meat, this is your place. Any sausage-type food is guaranteed to be excellent, and the pretzels and pumpernickel bread alone are worth it. And, if it’s not too sacriligeous to order cajun food in an authentic German restaurant, the creole red snapper is fairly well done.
For those more loyal, the schlat platte is excellent, and anything ending in “-itzel” is worth a try. Chris has opted for the mixed wurst plate on several occasions, always wanting to get as many types of meat into one sitting as possible.

And then there is the outside. In the winter, it’s kept warm and toasty with a tent and huge fireplace. In the summer, however, there is no better place to hear live music in the city. A wonderful outdoor bar (the lines move quickly, but be careful standing on the wooden stairs, espeically if you’ve already had one Ultimator) keeps revelers from getting thirsty while they listen to the likes of Push Down and Turn, Jennie deVoe, and our favorites, Polka Boy. People, ain’t nothing like a warm summer evening, a 32-ounce beer in your hands, and fifteen guys doing their rendition of “In Heaven There is No Beer”. Life doesn’t get much better than that.

ShelBi Street CaFé

Casual, intimate spot with sassy service (the waitress who flirted with my father during his recent visit identifies herself as “the bitch in black glasses”), and a very kind, talented chef (he always comes out to check on us). The select menu changes frequently, but some favorites are always available. The gingham salad is great for lunch, and they usually have some great soups as well. I recall a tuna entree that was fantastic for dinner one evening, and the portions are refreshingly reasonable without being huge. The strangely-spelled name came from the salvaged neon sign lettering from a defunct nearby florist. While the desserts are delicious, please don’t be like our friend, who ordered all four or five desserts in place of dinner (seriously). If you do opt for dessert, make sure you get the pineapple bread pudding. Many thanks, too, for the waitress who recommended coffee with a little nip of Frangelico.

The Old Spaghetti Factory

Lots of people like this place because it’s pretty cheap. I like the fancy purple lamps and the spumoni that comes with your meal, personally. Serving typical pasta dishes that can be mixed, matched, or topped with 18 pounds of cheese if desired.

As far as “authentic Italian experience” goes, however, this is clearly a midwestern favorite and has few ties, if any, to the mother country. The lines on the weekend are horrendous (and usually full of tourists and twangy nasal locals), so be prepared to wait.

Milano Inn

Family owned, tasty Italian. Across from Lilly, Milano Inn probably qualifies as an institution, since it’s been there forever.

Our dining experience was slightly altered, however, due to the fact tha the couple sitting behind us had chosen this family establishment as the venue for their publicly audible break-up. Our waitress was not the sweetest thing in the world, either, but perhaps she was picking up bad vibes from the break-up mcgees behind us.

The calamari was acceptable…nothing terribly noteworthy, and although neither of us can recall what we had for dinner (mine may have been pasta primavera, since that’s my style), we do remember the after-dinner drinks…Chris had some port, and Emily enjoyed her chocolate martini so much that we stopped at Kahn’s on the way home and bought the necessary potables to make our own.

The Abbey Coffeehouse

Even my parents like this place! Creative dishes (many of them vegetarian-friendly) include wraps, sandwiches on wonderful breads, and stuffed pitas. Nathan’s Famous (with feta, chicken, spinach, onions, and barbecue sauce) is awesome, but don’t expect any kisses afterwards. Same goes for the buffalo melt; the garlic mayonnaise is so garlicky it’s spicy. Yum! The Zoobilation roll is great, as is the vegetarian Asian wrap (or something like that). Just ask them to heat the rice that accompanies all sandwiches…it tastes better that way. Also make sure you save room for dessert and coffee; the tiramisu is huge and delicious! If you’re up early enough for breakfast, the abbey serves some decent omelettes and French toast dishes. Most of them look ugly but taste great in the a.m.

Update: Sadly (sniff!) the Mass Ave location is no longer, but they’ve relocated to somewhere on Pennsylvania.

The Oceanaire Seafood Room

Chris figured it out, what “the thing” is with places like this. For us, this was a very special evening spent with good friends. It was a treat and not a place we’d go to every weekend. A lot of other people, however, must not bat an eye when eating at an establishment like the Oceaniare. Although the fun art deco, classy music and delicious food did make for an enjoyable evening, the waitstaff treated us like it was just any old night. We wanted to feel special.

It started when Jon called to make reservations and check on the dress code. Apparently the staff person answering the phone told him, “Dress is business casual, sir. We find that people spend more money when they’re comfortable.” Strike one.

The bartender temporarily wandered off with our credit card and had to call for a manager to help him take a $50 mistake off our tab. Although he was nice and my sidecar was acceptable, he was a little too blasé about the ordeal. Strike Two.

Our waiter was very friendly and very knowledgeable about the menu. He recited several specials with no problem and explained everything on the menu to us in a four-minute monologue, even arranging for a vegetarian plate for our non fish-eating friend (no fins or feet). However, when asked at the end of the meal if they could please box up our leftovers (and we all had leftovers), the staff got a little too snarky for our taste. Dude, if we just spent that much money on fish, you’d better send it home with me. And smile about it.

As for the food, that was good. The bread was nasty (in the best sourdough nasty sort of way), the spinach salad was large and easily filled us both up. Jon and Christine each had a salad with chèvre and quince (both enjoyed it).

My mahi-mahi (only one of a few options not on the Seafood Watch Red List) came “simply grilled” in lemon, olive oil, and butter. It was fresh, and cooked just right. Chris ordered the fin and shell fish stew, which he assumed would be a lot like paella. Yes and no. It did come with an array of fresh seafood (clams, mussels, shrimp, salmon, and several crab legs) in a spicy red saffron-tomato broth, but no rice. Very tasty nonetheless.

The hash browned potatoes were decent (a little too much oil for me, but then any oil is too much for me), and the mashed potatoes were awesome. Rich and creamy, nothing like what I make at home.

Christine went for a salmon dish that came with a mushroom and leek quiche, which she seemed to enjoy. Jon even liked his vegetable platter, which came heaping with grilled zucchini, yellow squash, asparagus, broccoli and onions, accompanied by a heap of mashed potatoes. And Jon hates vegetables!

Then there was dessert. When they say “cookies and milk,” they really mean “half the batter in the bowl” baked to a cakey chocolate chip goodness. Our key lime pie was wonderful, and we probably should have stopped after a few bites. But no. We had to go and eat almost the entire slab (insert piglet sounds here).

All in all, we enjoyed the Oceanaire. The experience would have been much better had our service been a little less smug and tried a little harder to make this more of a special occasion. We feel that meals like this should be celebrations, not commonplace events. But if you’re in the mood for excellent, fresh seafood, this is the place… even in Indiana, of all places.

R Bistro

Excellent! The menu changes weekly, ingredients come from local sources, and the staff is attentive and welcoming. We decided to visit for Emily’s (belated) birthday dinner. All she’d requested was that “it be new and a surprise”. R Bistro was both.

For starters, the bread (crusty on the outside, warm and doughy on the inside) was perfect, and our salads were exellent.

Christopher had seared scallops served with swiss chard and cheesy polenta. On a whim, Emily ordered ham with potatoes au gratin and sauteed leeks. The server made quite a point in warning us that the ham would be served room-temperature. She appreciated the heads-up, and her dinner was so good that she did that thing where she crosses her eyes and closes them, and raises her eyebrows.

We found the service staff to be friendly and helpful. The owner’s husband meandered about and conversed with the patrons, so it was fun for us to eavesdrop and feel like we’re hip to what’s hapenning in the Mass Ave district.

Dessert and coffee weren’t the highlights of our experience, however. Coffee beans were from Hubbard and Cravens, a local roaster, whose beans are consistently more roasted than we prefer. Compound that with the fact that our coffee was brought to us in a French press, where all but the first cup was over-steeped in over-roasted beans, and the result was disappointing bitter coffee. Next time we’ll have a glass of port instead.

All in all, we are upset with ourselves for not visiting R Bistro sooner. It’s easily a new favorite!

Update 1/2005: Our bad for leaving a year in between visits. Yet another birthday prompted another visit to R Bistro, and we were again highly pleased.

Bread, still crusty and warm. Salad (with spinach, daikon, onions, and fennel) was crisp and tangy, while Chris’s cream of cauliflower soup with caraway seeds was warm, creamy, and smooth (an inspiration for our own attempts at home).

Chris ordered breakfast fopr dinner (huevor rancheros with awesome tortillas) and dinner for dessert (rice pudding with cream saunce) and was very pleased, but Emily totally won on this one. Although it’s hard for her to order coq au vin (just because she hates saying it), the mushroms and pearl onions would have been enough by themselves, they were just. that. good. Add chicken piences that don’t require a knife to eat because they were falling off the bone and some flatbread grilled with olive oil, and she was a happy diner.

Dessert, too, topped off the evening. Cranberry ice cream cake with chocolate crust and a frozen whipped cream and pistachio topping was delicious, and the coffee (what part of it Emily’ didn’t spill on the table) was a little better than previously. Perhaps they shouldn’t grind it so finely if it’s going to be served in a French press (and therefor avoid the dregs at the bottom of the cup).

Again, though, we loved our evening and it was romantic while bustling, private while public, and delicious while creative, labor-intensive, and delicious. The only bad thing is that by the time you read this, the menu will have totally new delicious options to choose from. Have fun!

Dunaway’s Palazzo Ossigeno Restaurant

This was a birthday dinner, so we wanted to make it something special. After trying to finish our wedge salads, we really didn’t need to have dinner, but I ordered the quail. The accompanying goat cheese polenta alone was worth it, but the sauteed greens and the quali itself was wonderful (once you get past the fact that you’re eating teeny little birds). Chris chose Arrogant Bastard Ale (partly because it was fun to order, and partly because it was really, really good) and the pistachio-crusted chicken, which he also enjoyed immensely. We can only image how good the creme brulee must be, because the couple next to us seemed to enjoy theirs quite a bit. The decor, the service and the food were all high quality, and even though we were seated way too close to other diners to feel like we were having an intimate and romantic dinner, we still enjoyed the meal.

Acapulco Joe’s

This is a popular downtown institution. Legend has it that Joe took a bus from the border intending to go to Minneapolis, but instead boarded the bus to the similar-sounding Indianapolis, and stayed put once he arrived. Whatever the details, it’s a pretty good place to meet after work.

Salsa comes in ketchup-style squeeze bottles, so creepy double-dipping party members are not a problem, if you’re the compulsive type. Christopher’s two favorite Mexican “indicator dishes,” as he calls them, may not be quite what one would normally expect: the chile rellenos are actually jalapeños (rather than the more common poblano), and the tamales are large, moist, and served unwrapped. And the margaritas are good.

Open Sundays for Colts games only.

Queen of Sheba

Alas, rising property taxes drove this charming Ethiopian restaurant away…and we only enjoyed the traditional meal once. Sigh. Fragrant incense and hot teas made for a truly immersive dinner experience (that, and the fact that the waitress, who was very nice, did accidentally drop some food on my pants). We asked if they would reopen at another location, but we haven’t heard of any new spots in town where you can scoop food out of a large communcal drum with thin pieces of tangy bread. Too bad.